Kathmandu

After four restful nights in Bangkok, including a relaxing visit with our friends Daneah and Jeff (who make astoundingly tasty Gin & Tonics and breakfast fritters), we were back at the Bangkok airport. Destination: Kathmandu.

Our flight with Thai Airways was uneventful, with two exceptions:

1. We saw Mt. Everest from the plane. It truly is amazing to fly along at 30,000 feet and look across, not down, at a mountain. Plus, a 250KPH jet stream was tearing snow off the peak, giving a Category 5 hurricane a run for its money. It’s hard to imagine people walking to the height where jet planes fly.

A wind-whipped Mt. Everest

2. By the time we booked our flight, business class was only $60 more than cattle class, and was available on the dates we wanted to fly, unlike economy. So we splurged and flew business class, something we had never done on an international flight. Wow. They gave us metal knives with our meal. There was a first course. And a main course. And a CHEESE course – which included port. Followed by dessert served with cognac! The decadence overwhelmed our economy-class sensibilities. Three hours went by far too quickly. The unexpectedness of the service and quality was delightful, and we are doubtful we’ll ever have a more enjoyable experience flying. Thai Airways Royal Silk Class = four thumbs up!

 After landing and taking care of practicalities (getting our visas, finding our bags, giving a cursory wave to the custom officers), we step out into a warm afternoon. The driver from our hotel meets us, and leads us through the chaos and cacophony that is the airport parking lot. Unknown music fills our ears, punctuated by the sharp blasts of car horns. Incense perfumes the air, and we realize that many of the taxi drivers burn it in their cars. I remember learning that in medieval times incense was often burned in churches as part of the ritual…and to cover the stench of the unwashed masses.

Driving in Kathmandu is not for the faint of heart. There are no highways or expressways, and roads expand and contract with the space available to them. Vans, cars, rickshaws, motorcycles, scooters, pedestrians, dogs, and the odd cow all vie for the same space, and horns express a universal meaning: Get Out of My Way!

Hills of trash line the streets, and stray dogs and pigs (yes, pigs!) root through the piles. Rubbish clogs the murky Vishnumati River, and white egrets perch on piles stalking unseen treats. A young girl, around eight years old, walks across the river bridge and nonchalantly drops her ice cream wrapper over the side.

The Vishnumati River

We are staying at Hotel Courtyard, an oasis in the bustle of Thamel, Kathmandu’s tourist neighborhood. We found the hotel through friends, and the owners, Pujan and Michelle, have made us feel very welcome. The hotel also has a mascot; a small long-haired dog named Tibby who greets guests with a bark. Mark stepped on him when we first arrived, causing a yowl. Fortunately Tibby is either forgiving or has a short memory, and he was more than happy to enjoy Mark petting him moments later.

Thamel feels a little like a “Disneyfied” Kathmandu; the streets are (mostly) trash-free and clean, shops sell brightly colored paintings, felt bags and clothing, and there are cafes offering organic juice and free wi-fi. Passive touts politely inquire if we need a trekking guide, a taxi, or hashish.

Walking through the streets of Thamel

Thamel is a nice place to chill out for a few days while we finish organizing the details of our trek. We plan to trek for 25-28 days, depending on our speed and ability. More details on those plans to follow…